About Australia
About Australia
Australia is a small, modern nation in a vast, ancient land. Covering an area the size of Europe, Australia is the world’s largest island continent. It is also the oldest, flattest and – with the exception of Antarctica – the driest place on earth.
For about 65000 years the continent was the preserve of around 600 groups of Aboriginal people. Theirs was the longest continuous occupation in human history. The British settled the east coast in 1788 and over the past two hundred years their colonial prison outpost has been transformed into a nation of 22 million people.
Since the arrival of the First Fleet in 1788, the pace of development in Australia has been rapid and far reaching. While not all our colonial heritage has been preserved, what does remain offers a substantial interpretation of the unique and often remarkable events of Australian history. Convict settlements tell the story of the grim and unpromising early years; isolated townships provide evidence of courageous attempts to tame a harsh environment; and ornate Victorian architecture boasts of some of the greatest gold rushes in history. A new appreciation of this unique heritage has resulted in the restoration of many historic sites over the past couple of decades, with locations now popular with a large number of visitors.
Although Australia is famed for its natural environment, most of its residents live in cities and large towns. The eight capital cities of the states and territories vary sharply in size and character. Much of this has to do with the considerable distances that separate them and the geographical conditions and historical circumstances that formed them. Some of the similarities come from a shared sense of what constitutes the good life and – hand in hand – with this – a willingness to take off and embrace the superb natural landscapes that surround them.
Australia is renowned for the beauty and diversity of its natural environment. As well as the vast tracts of desert that one would expect in the earth’s oldest, driest and flattest continent. It is a place of lush forests, wild rivers, ancient mountains, dramatic alpine peaks, glacial lakes and a magnificent coastline. Two sites, the stunning Great Barrier Reef and the massive monolith of Uluru – both among the most recognised natural features in the world – have contributed greatly to the development of Australia as a major nature travel destination. Other places, like the remote wilds of Tasmania and the vast expanse of the Kimberley are valued for their lonely beauty and remarkably unspoiled condition.
The outback may be the place of Australian myth and legend, but most Australians choose to live and holiday within reach of a beach. The superb scenery of almost 60 000 kilometres of coastline, which takes in the country’s hundreds of offshore islands, ranges from the sultry mangrove inlets of the far north to the white sweeping sands of the Indian Ocean coast and the rugged cliffs and legendary surf of the continent’s south. Going the the beach in Australia can mean an afternoon of bodysurfing in the suburbs, a sojourn in a tropical resort, time out in a reclusive fishing community, a drive along dramatic cliff tops or an exploration of one of several coastal world Heritage areas of great beauty and environmental significance.
Australia has some of the world’s most distinctive plants and animals. Pouches mammals, prehistoric reptiles, majestic gums and brilliant desert flowers are just a sample of the country’s many strange and beautiful living things. Around a quarter of overseas visitors rate the wildlife as a major attraction and a least a couple of our more famous creatures – kangaroos and koalas in particular- are regarded as national icons. Beyond the fascination of individual species, Australia offers a series of exceptionally well preserved natural environments, from marine waters to deserts and rainforests, where animals and plants can be seen in their natural settings and as part of the complex communities to which they belong.
When it comes to adventure holidays and outdoor activities, Australia is a destination without peer. The continent’s diverse and well-preserved environment of remote bush, snowfields, rugged cliffs, wild rivers, extensive coastline and underwater reefs is a Mecca for the world’s walkers, skiers, climbers, rafters, anglers and divers. Many of these activities are offered within the boundaries of national parks and other conservation areas. Australia’s regulated and well-organised tourism industry means that there are plenty of experienced operators offering training, tours, charters and equipment.
Australia’s Top Beaches
The Basin Beaches, Rottnest Island WA
On the island’s north side, reef-protected beaches offer a safe haven for holidaying families.
Bells Beach, Torquay VIC
Australia’s top surfing destination and site of the legendary Rip Curl Pro each Easter.
Boodereee National Park beaches, Jervis Bay NSW
A series of near deserted beaches, surrounded by native bush and boasting what is claimed to be the whitest sand in the world.
Cable Beach, Broome WA
A luxurious sweep of white sand fronting turquoise waters, forming the scenic centrepiece of Australia’s most remote and exotic resort town.
Cactus Beach, Penong, SA
The three famous surfing breaks of this remote destination are strictly for surfer with a frontier spirit and the skill to match.
Four Mile Beach, Port Douglas, QLD
A beach so beautiful that it helped turn a sleepy seaside village into an international resort.
Noosa National Park Beaches, QLD
A subtropical wonderland of peaceful, pandanus-fringed coves providing a retreat from the bustling Sunshine Coast.
Watego Beach, Byron Bay, NSW
Tune out and drop in at this popular north-facing surf beach in one of Australia’s less conventional towns.
Whitehaven Beach, Whitsunday Island, QLD
A paradise, 7km long, on a pristine, uninhabited island.
Wineglass Bay, Freycinet Peninsula, TAS
Bushland opens up to this magnificently sculpted crescent-shaped beach.
Australia’s World Heritage Sites
Australian Fossil Mammal Sites (Naracoorte & Riversleigh)
Naracoorte is along with Queensland’s Riversleigh Fossil Site one of Australia’s most significant cave systems, a fact reflected by its World Heritage listings. There are 60 known caves; several of which are open to the public. At the excellent Wonambi Fossil Centre, displays show how the fossils found in the caves have played a key role in charting the continent’s evolutionary history. The fossils at Riversleigh (Lawn Hill National Park) record the evolution of mammals over 20 million years, as the vegetation changed from rainforest to semi arid grassland. Guided tours provide an insight into the ancient world, and there is a self guide interpretive trail.
Fraser Island
World Heritage listed Fraser Island is the largest sand island in the world. It is an ecological wonder with lakes and forests existing purely on sand. This alone would make it a worthwhile holiday destination, but add to this the beauty of the beaches, the coloured sand cliffs, more than 40 freshwater lakes and the spectacular tall rainforests. Protected within Great Sandy National Park, the island is home to a variety of wildlife, including migratory birds and rare animals such as the ground parrot and Illidge’s ant-blue butterfly. Fraser Island’s dingoes are one of the purest strains in the country. Offshore, see the turtles, dugong and dolphins soak up the warm waters and, between August and November, look out for migrating humpback whales. There are a variety of walks – ranging from short scenic walks to longer hikes. During holiday periods, spotlight tours and guided walks are run by the rangers. Scenic drives (four wheel drive and permit necessary) start at Central Station and Happy Valley and are an excellent introduction to the island. Some of the more spectacular sights include Lake McKenzie with shallow, aquamarine waters that are ideal for swimming, Lake Wabby , slowly being engulfed by an enormous sand blow. There is also the shipwreck of The Maheno near Happy Valley, the coloured sands of The Cathedrals, crystal clear Eli Creek and the lovely Champagne Pools at Middle Rock. Note: Care should be taken around the island’s dingo population. Stay with children, walk in groups, never feed or coax the dingoes and keep all food and rubbish in vehicles or campground lockers.
Great Barrier Reef
The Great Barrier Reef is Australia’s most prized and visited natural destination. Extending over 2000 kilometres along the coast of Queensland, this breathtakingly beautiful marine environment features tropical islands, aquamarine waters, rare and brilliantly coloured corals, seagrass beds, fish and sea going mammals and birds. It is considered to be one of the world’s great destinations for diving, sailing and a large number of other activities, including fishing, swimming, windsurfing and kayaking. Only 22 of the reef’s 900 islands cater for tourists. Some of these support large resorts with every level of accommodation, while others are completely protected by national park and offer camping only. Daytrips from the mainland are a popular way of seeing the reef for those with limited time
Greater Blue Mountain Area
The misty, bush clad cliffs and valleys of the Blue Mountains are the eroded remains of a giant plateau that rose up out of a river delta 80 million years ago. Occupied for at least 20 000 years by Aboriginal people, the mountains proved an impenetrable barrier to the European settlers of Sydney until 1813. These days the area provides an accessible and spectacularly beautiful nature retreat for the city’s residents. With bushwalking, adventure sports, gourmet retreats and cool climate gardens among the many attractions.
Kakadu National Park
The ancient Arnhem Land escarpment meanders 500 kilometres north to south, separating Kakadu national Park in the west from Aboriginal owned Arnhem Land in the east. World Heritage listed Kakadu is of enormous cultural and environmental significance, protecting most habitats of northern Australia and one third of the country’s bird species and preserving an incredible record of natural and Aboriginal history in the vast galleries of rock art. Before European settlement this was one of the most intensely populated areas on the continent. Today the park offers excellent facilities, tours across serene lily strewn billabongs, and four wheel drive tracks for more intrepid explorers. Arnhem Land is the traditional home of a number of language groups and one of Australia’s most remote and least traversed regions. Permits are required for approaches by road.
Lord Howe Island
The Lord Howe Group of Islands lies in subtropical waters about 500 kilometres off the northern New South Wales coast. Listed as a World Heritage site, these volcanic remnants have great natural value and beauty, with sandy beaches, coral reefs, imposing forest covered mountains and some of the rarest flora and fauna on earth. Fly from Sydney, Brisbane or Port Macquarie for wildlife watching, walking, surfing, cruising, diving and relaxing in one of Australia’s most unspoiled holiday environments. The narrow crescent shaped main island is 11 kilometres long and has a strict tourist capacity of 400, so book well in advance to avoid disappointment.
Purnululu National Park, Shark Bay
World Heritage listed Shark Bay is a sunny paradise of bays, inlets and shallow azure waters, bliessed with a great number of unusual features. It boasts the world’s most diverse and abundant examples of stromatolites the world’s oldest living fossils which dot the shores of Hamlin pool in rocky lumps. The bay region supports the largest number and greatest area of seagrass species in the world. Covering 4000 square kilometres, these vast underwater meadows are home to around 14 000 dugongs, ten percent of the world’s total number. The bay’s humpback whales resting on their long migrations, manta rays, green and loggerhead turtles and most famously, the dolphins that regularly visit Monkey Mia.
Tasmanian Wilderness
Tasmania’s south west is one of the planet’s great wildernesses, an almost uninhabited landscape of fretted mountains, glacial lakes, majestic rivers, waterfalls, gorges, virgin temperate rainforest and 1000 year old trees. In the valleys and along the coast are rock art galleries and middens that represent some of the world’s best preserved Ice Age sites. The region attracts nature lovers and adventurers from far afield. The Franklin River is an internationally renowned white-water rafting destination, and the network of wilderness tracks challenges the most experienced walkers. A cluster of small towns – two with their history rooted firmly in mining – can be found in the north. The North West region is a delight for bushwalkers as well as more traditional holiday makers. Along the north coast the Bass Highway, intersected by regional centres and holiday villages, offers unparalleled views of Bass Strait. The undulating country near the coast is a patchwork of farms producing vegetables, dairy products, honey and flowers. Further south are the dolomite peaks and still lakes of Cradle Mountain – Lake St Clair National Park. On the west coast the Arthur and Pieman rivers tumble through gorges and rainforest to a coastline of rolling breakers, dangerous headlands and rich Aboriginal sites.
Uluru – Kata Tjuta National Park
This is Australia’s geographic scenic and mythic heart. With its spectacular landforms, deserts, blue skies and monumental sense of scale, it has become a powerful symbol of the ancient grandeur of the Australian continent. For many thousands of years the region has been home to Aboriginal people from numerous groups – including the Arrernte and the Anangu – who named, mapped and inscribed with spiritual meaning almost every one of the landforms, from massive Uluru to the ancient riverbeds and obelisks. Europeans colonised the area in the 1870s with the building of the Overland Telegraph Line. Tourism began in the 1940s and has flourished since the 1970s. The best time to visit is during the winter months; summer is extremely hot. Visitors intending to explore beyond the beaten track need to be fully self-sufficient, and those traversing Aboriginal land need to check if they require a permit.
Wet Tropics of Queensland
The Daintree is arguably Australia’s most beautiful and famous rainforest. The lush tangle of green protected within it is an incredible remnant from the days of Gondwana, forming part of the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area. This park will dazzle visitors with its diverse landscapes such as canopies of sprawling fan palms, deserted mangrove-lined beaches and boulder-strewn gorges. The Mossman Gorge section is a picturesque landscape of swimming holes, granite boulders, coastal lowlands and rugged mountain terrain. Walk 400 metres from the car park to the suspension bridge over Rex Creek – look out for freshwater turtles and platypus. Continue on to the informative 2.7 kilometre Rex Creek rainforest circuit. Another way to explore this part of the park is on a guided KuKu Yalanji Dreamtime Walk traversing an old Aboriginal trail through the rainforest. Walkers learn about bush tucker and the legends of the Dreamtime along the way. This section is around five kilometres west of Mossman.
The Cape Tribulation section is between the Daintree and Bloomfield rivers and was named by Captain Cook on his troubled voyage in 1770. It features crystal-clear creeks, forests festooned with creepers and vines, and palm-lined beaches. Visitors might catch a glimpse of rainforest birds such as the cassowary or the noisy pitta. There are informative rainforest and mangrove walks like the Maardja boardwalk at Oliver Creek or the Dubuji boardwalk at Cape tribulation. Experienced hikers ready for a challenge would enjoy the full-day Mt Sorrow Ridge trail, with spectacular views over the Daintree coast. This section is accessed via the Daintree River cable ferry (runs 6am – 12midnight daily). Four- wheel drive is recommended and motorists are advised to check the RACQ Road Conditions Report for information before departing.
Flora and Fauna of Australia
For 50 million years Australia developed in isolation; the result is a unique set of plant and animals. Marsupials, represented by 180 species are uncommon elsewhere. Likewise, the curious monotreme (an exclusive club with only platypuses and echidnas as members) is found nowhere else except New Guinea. When it comes to plants, only 15 percent of our 28000 indigenous species are found beyond Australia’s shores. Aridity and poor soil have brought about this uniqueness, with many species developing special characteristics to cope with harsh conditions. These adaptations have led to enormous biodiversity. Western Australia has 12 500 wildflower species, giving the state one of the world’s richest floras, while the rainforests of the east coast are among the most biologically complex places on earth.
The Outback
Although referred to as the continent’s dead heart, the vast areas of arid land at the centre of Australia support prolific and varied life including 2000 plant s species and the highest concentration of reptiles in the world. Among its mammal species it the mighty red, the largest member of the kangaroo family with the male reaching two metres in height.
Shark Bay, WA
This World Heritage wonderland is best known for its bottlenose dolphins, which glide into the shallow waters of Monkey Mia and approach entranced visitors. Other highlights of this extraordinary area include the 230 bird species and a population of about 14 000 dugongs- the largest population in the world.
Kakadu Nationalpark, NT
This large world heritage listed park is one of Australia’s most biologically diverse and prolific regions. Around 1600 plant species thrive in Kakadu, forming most of the native habitats of northern Australia. The wildlife is no less impressive and includes 280 bird species (one third of all Australian species), 123 reptile species and 52 freshwater fish species.
Kangaroo Island, SA
Isolation from the mainland has helped Australia’s third largest island maintain an unusual concentration of wildlife. Highlights include a large colony of Australian sea lions at Seal Bay, about 30 000New Zealand fur seals at Cape du Couedic, 240 bird species and plenty of kangaroos, wallabies and possums as well as koalas and platypuses.
Port Stephens, NSW
One of the largest koala colonies in Australia is to be found in the wild here at Tilligerry Habitat. Probably the country’s best know native animal, these short, tailless marsupials are usually inactive for 20 hours a day and feed mostly on eucalyptus leaves. The waters of Port Stephens are home to over 100 bottlenose dolphins and, in season, serve as a thoroughfare for migrating humpback whales.
Hervey Bay, QLD
Between July and November each year up to 400 humpback whales visit Hervey Bay, the whale watching capital of Australia. They pause here for rest and recreation on their 12 000 km journey between their breeding grounds in the Pacific Ocean and their feeding grounds in the Antarctic. Whale watching cruises operate in the bay.
Phillip Island, VIC
The little penguins of Phillip Island are Victoria’s best known wildlife attraction. Each evening visitors can watch scores of these small creatures, measuring about 33cm tall, returning to their sand burrows after a day of fishing. Other island residents include the koalas at the Koala Conservation Centre and the seals, which can be seen on cameras at the Nobbies Centre or on a cruise to Seal Rocks.
Australians Historic Sites
The Rocks, Sydney, NSW
The Rocks marks the site of the first European settlement in Australia and is probably the country’s most intact historic precinct. A mix of early buildings – bond stores, churches, pubs, low slung cottages and wharves – is crowded across the peninsula at the heart of Sydney’s CBD.
Hahndorf, SA
This charming village was settled in the 1830s by Australia’s first significant non British immigrant group – German Lutheran peasants fleeing religious persecution. Today much of their culture is preserved through buildings, produce shops, restaurants and festivals. The nearby Barossa Valley, Australia’s most famous wine region was also established by German settlers.
Port Arthur, TAS
There is no other site in the world like Port Arthur. Built in the early 1800s by convicts as a prison for convicts, it is our most graphic reminder of why and how modern Australia came into being. The site comprises a clutch of sandstone buildings – a penitentiary, hospital, asylum and church among them – set along the dramatic coast of the Tasman Peninsula.
Fremantle, WA
Fremantle is one of the world’s best preserved 19th century ports and serves as a fascinating reminder of the significance of the sea in an island nation. Established in 1829, Fremantle contains a range of buildings that includes public offices, warehouses, shipping company headquarter, shopfronts and houses, many now open to the public as museums and galleries.
Central Goldfields, VIC
Many areas in Australia experienced a gold rush in the second half of the 19th century, but nowhere were the yields as great and the effects as dramatic as in Victoria. The legacy is a series of towns – particularly Ballarat and Bendigo – boasting significant concentrations of rural Victorian era architecture. Less conspicuous but also significant are the sites marking the history of the Chinese in Australia.
Towns of North Queensland, QLD
Early settlement in the remote towns of Cooktown, Townsville, Charters Towers and Ravenswood was underpinned by the Australian themes of isolation, hardship and adaptation. Settled for a variety of reasons – to serving farming communities or the gold rush or as ports – they preserve significant recollections of the 19th century. Of particular interest is the architecture including the grand facades and cool inferiors of Charters Towers.
Parramatta NSW
Now an outer suburb of Sydney, Parramatta was originally preferred over Sydney Harbour by European settlers and officials, not least because of its proximity to farmland and distance from the convict population. Parramatta preserves important fragments of the earliest colonial years, including the country’s oldest buildings – Elizabeth Farm, home to pastoralists John and Elizabeth Macarthur, and the first Government House. Both are open to the public
Classic Drives in Australia
Blue Mountains, NSW
Start: Glenbrook
Finish: Mount Tomah
Distance: 185km
Drama and interest lay around every bend in the World Heritage listed Blue Mountains. Sandstone escarpments tumble into dense bushland with many cultural sites in between – from Aboriginal rock art to historic gardens. Explorers Blaxland, Wentworth and Lawson forged the first path across the mountains in 1813, and today the Great Western Highway closely follows their original ridge top track.
From Glenbrook to Mount Tomah
Ancient heritage
For maps, brochures and advice on your trip to the Blue Mountains, stop in at the visitor centre on the great Western Highway in Glenbrook About 15 km south lies Red Hands Cave, where you can see one of the best preserved examples of Aboriginal art in the Sydney region - hand stencils and prints believed to be between 500 and 1600 years old.
Artist’s hideaway
Painter sculptor and author Norman Lindsay lived and worked for most of his life in a pretty, bush framed stone cottage on the outskirts of Faulconbridge. It is now a gallery and museum that features a collection of his work, including his famous depictions of female nudes, as well as puppets representing characters from his classic children’s book, The Magic Pudding (1918).
Water feature
Grand vistas slip in and out of view as you weave towards the picturesque town of Wentworth Falls. The waterfall, a short distance south of town, is one of the great natural attractions of the mountains – a 300 m high tumble of water formed by a massive slip in the escarpment. Walks, lookouts and picnic spots give visitors ample opportunity to explore the area.
Ever beautiful
As well as interesting historic buildings, great galleries and cafes, Leura is the home of Everglades, one of the many outstanding gardens of the mountains flourishing in the rich volcanic soil. Danish gardener Paul Sorensen created this 6 ha wonderland across a series of cascading terraces, which open to superb Jamison Valley views and provide a wonderful frame for the property’s classic Art Deco residence.
A rock and two rides
Katoomba, with its luxury resorts and Art Deco architecture is the tourist hub of the Blue Mountains. Within walking distance are two mountain rides. She Scenic Skyway, a cable car that runs 300 m above the valley floor; and the Scenic Railway claimed to be the steepest-incline railway in the world. Nearby Echo Point is the place to view the famous Three Sisters, a massive rock formation of three distinct ‘figures’ carved by the forces of erosion.
Leap into wilderness
Beyond Blackheath, Govetts Leap Lookout commands views across the Grose Valley – a vast expanse of forest-clad rock folds, misty ravines and ribbon-like waterfalls. The valley contains 50 000 ha of identified wilderness, and has a superb range of walks leading to sites such as the Blue Gum Forest. Visit the National Parks and wildlife Service Heritage Centre in Blackheath for maps, brochures and an insight into the natural and cultural history of the mountains.
Trip back in time
The Zig Zag Railway was built 1866-69, and has been described as one of the engineering wonders of the 19th century. Built to bring the great Western Railway Line from the top of the Blue Mountains down the steep mountainside into the Lithgow Valley, it comprises a series of gently sloping ramps in Z-formation. Old steam trains and railmotors take visitors out on the restored track several times a day.
Private plantings
The tiny town of Mount Wilson is famous for its English-style private gardens, established by the leisured Sydney elite in the late 19th century. Take a walk through the streets for a taste – many gardens are open to the public in spring and autumn, when their colours blaze against the olive green backdrop of the bush.
Seasonal brilliance
Mount Tomah Botanic garden – the cool climate branch of the Royal Botanic Gardens in Sydney – is a 28 ha wonderland of foliage and flowers: protea and heath in winter, cherry blossoms, bulbs, rhododendrons and azaleas in spring, alpine flowers in summer, and shades of russet in autumn. On a clear day, vies from the many terraces extend 180 km across the canyon country towards the Hunter Valley.
Great Ocean Road , Victoria
Start: Geelong
Finish: Port Fairy
Distance: 329km
The Great Ocean Road is one of Australia’s most spectacular drives. It weaves a coast-hugging course around sea bound hills, through dense rainforest and past astonishing rock formations. There are historic villages, heritage lighthouses and excellent surfing, fishing and diving along the way. Allow about three days to complete the tour – the accommodation options range from beachside camping to luxury eco-lodges.
Port city
Geelong, a large regional city and major port, began as a service centre for the wool-rich Western District in the 1830s. Historic bluestone warehouses dot the waterfront; one now houses the fascinating National Wool Museum. Geelong’s attractive waterfront, stretching from Cunningham Pier to the Art deco pavilion at Eastern Beach, is an ideal stopping place – cafes, restaurants and grassy picnic spots overlook the bay.
Making waves
Torquay is the surf capital of Australia. It has the world’s largest surf museum, Surf world, and is home to a number of big name manufacturers of surf gear including Rip Curl and Quicksilver. Just down the road is the legendary Bells Beach, where the country’s top surf event, The Rip Curl Pro, takes place each Easter.
Waterfalls and Lattes
Lorne is a popular holiday town on the shores of Loutit Bay. In summer the main street is lined with latte-sippers, while the beach is packed with holidaying families. The hinterland hills are protected in Angahook- Lorne State park – It encloses a tranquil landscape of waterfalls and rainforest, crisscrossed by a series of walking tracks.
Fresh Fish
The 42km route from Lorne to Apollo Bay is no ordinary country drive – extraordinary views unfold around every corner as the road curves and swoops across a band of low coastal hills. Apollo Bay has a busy harbour and a resident fishing fleet; drop by the wharf to check out the catch when the boats come in. The accommodation and dining in and around town are excellent.
Forest foray
Beyond Apollo Bay the road swings inland to cross the peaks and valleys of the national park – protected Otway Ranges. Here lie significant pockets of cool temperate rainforest, the ancestry of which dates back as far as the Gondwana era. Stop at Maits Rest, where a boardwalk leads into a mossy gully past giant myrtle beech trees.
To the Lighthouse
The Cape Otway Lighthouse sits on a rugged point 100m above the sea. Built by convicts in 1848, the lighthouse complex, with its low-slung, white-rendered buildings, is now open to the public. Holiday accommodation is available in the Keeper’s Cottage – book ahead.
Scattered Stacks
West of the Otway, protected within Port Campbell National Park , lies one of Australia’s most scenic sights; large limestone formations that have fractured from the original cliff line and now lie stranded amid the swell of the Southern Ocean. Best known are the lonely shapes of the Twelve Apostles and the elegant arch of London Bridge. Viewing platforms and boardwalks give visitors good access to the views.
Shipwreck Coast
Around 80 shipwrecks pepper Victoria’s south-west waters. Best known is the Loch Ard, wrecked in 1878 near the gorge now known by the same name. Of the 54 people on board, only two survived. Plaques mark the various wreck sites along the coast, and some of the wrecks are accessible to divers (dive operators are based in Port Campbell and Warrnambool).
Ocean Nursery
Warrnambool is a large regional centre with good beach and river frontage. Its star attraction is Logans Beach, where most years, from winter through to spring, southern right whales arrive from their Antarctic feeding grounds to give birth just offshore, and then stay around to tend their young. In town is Flagstaff Hill maritime Museum, an authentic recreation of an Australian colonial port. “Shipwrecked”, an evocative sound and light show, screens nightly.
Fishing Village
Port Fairy is one of Victoria’s earliest ports, established in the late 1820s on the banks of the Moyne River. Over 50 of its buildings have been classified by the National Trust. Visit Griffiths Island, at the head of the river, to see the huge colony of short-tailed shearwaters (September – April), explore the 1859 lighthouse, or cast a line off the riverbank.
Cape to Cape, Western Australia
Start: Busselton
Finish: Cape Leeuwin
Distance: 191km
Roads: Some roads in Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park are unsealed, but route is suitable for 2WD
Western Australia’s icon tour takes you from Cape Naturaliste to Cape Leeuwin, across a cave-riddled landscape patterned with forests, farmland and vineyards. Along the coast are near-deserted beaches and some of Australia’s best surf, while migrating whales can sometimes be seen cruising beyond the breakers. Allow at least two days for this trip. A plethora of interesting accommodation awaits the visitor, particularly around the wine centre of Margaret River.
A Pier without Peer
Busselton, an agricultural centre and key holiday area, lies on the calm waters of Geographe Bay. The town’s landmark is the 2km long jetty, built in stages from 1865 to the 1960s, and put to various uses including servicing American whaling ships and loading timber. Today a historic railway carries visitors back and forth, and an Underwater Observatory at the seaward end takes people below the surface to see the explosion of sea life.
Northern Light
The 1903 Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse, now open to the public, lies just to the north-west of Dunsborough. A short stroll away is a whale-watching platform, setup for spotting the humpback whales that linger close to shore as they rest (September to November) before making their journey back to Antarctica.
Surf and Salmon
The tiny town of Yallingup boasts one of the region’s renowned surf beaches, and is a hot spot for salmon between May and June. Go to the Rotary Lookout south of town for a view of Canal Rocks, a canal-like formation that extends many metres out into the surf along a fault line. Close to town is Ngilgi Cave, open daily for tours.
The Moon’s bathing Place
Heading south, a tapestry of emerald-green pastures and vineyards unfurls, dotted here and there with B&Bs and cellar doors. Past Gracetwon is Ellensbrook, the 1857 wattle and daub homestead of a former beef and dairy cattle lease. From the homestead (open weekends), a 1.3km circuit walk winds past Meekadarribee Waterfall and Grotto. Aboriginal legend describes the site as “the moon’s bathing place”.
Competition surf brakes
Much of the coastline between the capes is protected within Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Par4k. it is a wild, untamed landscape of crumbling cliffs and big surf; Prevelly, th the immediate west of Margaret River, hosts the Margaret River Masters each March/April. For those just after a dip, Gnarabup Beach, a short distance south of Prevelly, offers safe swimming.
Among the vines
Margaret River lies at the centre of a large winegrowing district, just 10km from the coast. The first grapes were planted in 1967, and the region’s ever expanding list of wineries now includes names such as Vasse Felix Leeuwin and Moss Wood. Start a winery tour at the Margaret River Regional Wine Centre in Cowaramup. Across the region are cellar door tastings and sales, and many interesting places to have a meal or bed down for the night.
Underground Adventures
Around 360 caves pockmark the malleable limestone landscape of this region. For an introduction head to Cave Works at the mouth of Lake Cave, a fascinating interpretive centre with a dynamic working cave model. Passes are available here for Lake Cave as well as Mammoth Cave, a little to the north and Jewel Cave to the south.
Forests and Wrecks
En route to Hamelin bay, the unsealed Boranup Drive weaves a scenic course through a stretch of karri forest. The trees here have a regenerated from the large scale logging carried out at the turn of the 20th century; in spring, wildflowers pattern the forest with patches of brilliant colour. A ruined jetty is all that remains at the once busy port of Hamelin Bay.
Where Oceans Meet
Cape Leeuwin marks the meeting place of two of the world’s great oceans: The Indian and the Southern. It is also the site of the majestic 1897 Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse, and a great place to watch for whales/ southern rights between June and October and humpbacks in winter. The nearby town of Augusta, established in the 1830s is one of the oldest settlements in the state, and the Augusta Historical Museum explores a number of interesting local themes.
Dreamtime Trail Northern Territory
Start: Alice Springs
Finish: Glen Helen Resort
Distance: 187 km
Roads/Warnings: Some roads in West Mac Donnell National Park are unsealed, but route is suitable for 2WD. Aboriginal land permits are not needed as far as Glen Helen Resort. Take care and make adequate preparations when travelling in the outback.
The dry, weathered folds of the Mac Donnell Ranges stretch 500km across Central Australia, at the heart of the Dreamtime landscape of the Arrernte Aboriginal people. This drive explores the western part of the ranges, preserved within west Mac Donnell National Park, which is renowned fr tis spectacular gorge scenery and wealth of flora and fauna. Superb swimming holes and walking trails mean you can easily spend a couple of days here; the park is well set up for camping, and accommodation is also available at Glen Helen Resort.
Outback Capital
Alice Springs, capital of the outback, has evolved from an unruly desert outpost to a well resourced community and an impressive cultural centre. The Alice Springs Cultural Precinct includes various sites – don’t miss the Museum of Central Australia and the Araluen Centre, with its focus on Aboriginal art and performance.
Desert Life
The Alice Springs Desert park provides an excellent introduction to the plants, animals and environments of Australia’s arid regions. A 1.6 km path winds through three habitats; Desert Rivers, Sand Country and Woodland, while just beyond the entrance to the park is the grave of John Flynn (1180 – 1951) founder of the Royal Flying Doctor Service and one of the enduring heroes of the Australian outback.
Red Walls and Wallabies
Arrernte legend associates Simpsons Gap with several dreaming trails, including the Perentie (Goanna) Dreaming. This gap in the ranges has towering walls of red rock, sheltering river red gums and a picturesque waterhole; black footed rock wallabies can be seen along the short access track, especially at dawn and dusk. This is the first stop in West Mac Donnall National Park and there is a visitor centre on site.
Midday Marvel
The walls of Standley Chasm rise to 80m at their highest point, forming a narrow corridor through the ranges. A 20 minute walk into the cleft takes you past rare and relict plants, including cycads and ferns, which flourish in this shaded environment. Time your wall at midday, when sunlight turns the chasm walls an incandescent red.
Birds at the Big Hole
Beautiful Ellery Creek Big Hole is surrounded by river red gums and backed by red cliffs. The permanent waterhole is a popular swimming and picnic spot, and camping is permitted (there are basic facilities). The water attracts a variety of birds, including spotted bowerbirds, Port Lincoln parrots and white plumed honeyeaters.
Writhing Watercourse
Serpentine Gorge is part of the Carpet Snake Dreaming, but it is snake like even to European eyes and gets its English name for the slithering course it forges through the ranges. The base of the gorge is often studded with waterholes. Swimming is permitted in the first waterhole, but observe signs elsewhere; the higher waterholes are protected habitats for rare plants and animals.
Ceremonial Colours
Explore the ancient Ochre Pits along the three hour circuit walk. It is here that Aboriginal people once quarried for ochre, a substance that plays an important part in their traditional life. Mixed with water or fat, it is used in body decoration, rock art and medicine, and comes in a range of colours, from deep red through to bright yellow and pure white, due to varying amounts of iron oxide.
Cliffs High, Waterhole Deep
The cliffs at Ormiston Gorge are the highest in the West Mac Donnells (around 300m in places), while the near permanent waterhole is estimated to be 14m deep (swimming is permitted). The area is home to the long tailed dunnart, once thought to be extinct. There is an information centre here offering ranger conducted activities and a campsite with good facilities.
Resort to the River
Glen Helen Resort is a homestead style resort not far from the Finke River. Stop overnight (camping and accommodation are available) and take time to enjoy the surrounds. Nearby Glen Helen Gorge is a breathtaking sandstone formation created by the ancient flow of the Finke River. A pretty reed fringed waterhole provides a haven for fucks, herons and waders, and creates a magnificent setting for a swim.
Hinterland Escape, Queensland
Start: Noosa Heads
Finish: Glass House Mountains
Distance: 137km
This drive leads through the Blackall Range, the tranquil, emerald green hills that frame the beaches and resort towns of the Sunshine Coast. En route are quaint hillside villages well serviced with cafes, stores and galleries, and to the south a scenic road swoops through the sculptural shapes of the Glass House Mountains. The journey can be completed in a day, but there are plenty of B&Bs and guesthouses for overnight stays.
Noosa Lifestyle
Noosa heads, the epicentre of the Sunshine Coast, is a fashionable resort town set on lovely Laguna Bay at the mouth of the Noosa River. The nearby headland is preserved within Noosa National Park; a network of walking tracks leads through the forest to sandy beaches and dramatic cliff top vantage points.
Marvellous Market
The 19th century timber town of Eumundi marks the ascent into the hills. On Wednesday and Saturday mornings the town hosts one of Australia’s most colourful markets. Aim to arrive as early as possible – breakfast here is a treat. Taste the fine locally grown produce, browse through the clothing and crafts, relax in the shade of a tree and be entertained by buskers.
Ginger Galore
Yandina is the home of The Ginger Factory – both a factory and a theme park, Ginger is a major local crop, and this factory has combined its operations with a range of experiences for visitors. See how ginger is processed, watch cooking demonstrations, purchase jams and other treats from the Ginger Shoppe, ride the historic Queensland Cane Train and wander in the beautiful subtropical gardens.
Escarpment Escape
Just before you reach the town of Mapleton, stop at Dulong Lookout situated at the top of the escarpment. The views are exhilarating – rolling green hills to the east and dense forest to the north. Take time to explore tiny Mapleton Falls National Park, which preserves remnant rainforest and a 120 m waterfall.
Chirping Birds and Rushing Water
The road from Mapleton to Flaxton traces the ridge of the Blackall Range, offering magnificent views east and west. Just south of Flaxton is the turn off to Kondalilla National Park, a small 327 ha park where over 100 bird species have been recorded. This is also where you will find Kondalilla Falls, an impressive 90 m cascade, with a rock pool suitable for swimming perched on top.
Mountain Village
Montville is more like a northern European village than a town of the Australian subtropics. Settled by citrus growers in the 1880s, its centrepiece is an English style village green. A signposted heritage trail starts at the adjacent village hall. Take time to browse through the art and craft galleries and stop for lunch at one of the excellent local eateries.
Unlimited Vistas
Between Montville and Malerny is Gerrard Lookout – 375 m above sea level, it takes in the3 entire spread of the Sunshine Coast, from the high rise of Caloundra to the dense coastal forests around Noosa Heads. Balmoral Lookout, a few kilometres further along, offers views across farmland to nearby Lake Baroon, and westward to the forests around Kenilworth.
Looking South
Beyond the peaceful hamlet of Maleny is the aptly named Mountain View Road, which provides breathtaking views of the mountains to the south. At McCarthys Lookout a sign identifies each of the peaks, including the recognisable shapers of the Glass House Mountains. Further along is Mary Cairncross Park, the legacy of 19th century environmentalist Mary Cairnscross, where there are walking trails and a natural history centre that introduces visitors to the varied plant and animal life of the Hinterland.
Mountain Loop
The Old Gympie Road cuts through the middle of the Glass House Mountains, veering south just ahead of Landsborough. These 16 volcanic plugs and peaks rise abruptly from the plains, reaching a maximum height of 556 m; nine of them are protected within Glass House Mountains National Park. Many walks in the park require rock climbing ability; although an easier option is the two hour return hike up 253 m Mt Ngungun, via the township of Glass house Mountains.
Peninsula Trail, Tasmania
Start: Dunalley
Finish: Coal Mines Historic Site
Distance: 115km
Roads: Roads to Fortescue Bay and Coal Mines Historic Site are unsealed but route is suitable for 2WD.
The Forestier and Tasman Peninsulas form a long arch to the south east of Hobart. In the south, the ruins of Port Arthur convict settlement are the ultimate destination for many travellers, although the grand and rugged beauty of the surrounding coastline can be just as evocative and dramatic. This trip can be done in a day, but you may need more time to do justice to the diverse range of sights. Hotels, motels and B&Bs are plentiful, but book ahead.
On the Isthmus
Dunalley is a quiet fishing village situated on the narrow isthmus that marks the start of the Forestier Peninsula. In the early 20th century, bullock teams and a small locomotive engine were used to build a canal through the isthmus. This shortcut for fishing vessels travelling between Hobart and the Tasmanian east coast is still in use.
Fortress Cliffs
On a fine day Pirates Bay Lookout offers views across the bay, past Eaglehawk Neck, to the towering coastal cliffs of the Tasman Peninsula – they reach up to 300m in places and are one of the truly magnificent sights of the Tasmanian coastline. A short drive away is the Tessellated pavement, a mudstone platform on the edge of the sea made up of a series of square, tile like rocks.
Nature’s Security Gate
Eaglehawk Neck occupies the ribbon thin isthmus that leads to the Tasman Peninsula. During the convict era, fierce dogs were chained here to discourage convicts from escaping the confines of Port Arthur. At Eaglehawk Neck Historic Site, the Dog line, reached by a walking track from the old Officers’ Quarters, is marked by a bronze dog sculpture.
Doo Visit The Rocks
Drop in to Doo Town, where all the house names incorporate the word “Doo”. From here the road branches off to three dramatic rock features: Tasman Blowhole, Tasman Arch and Devils Kitchen all created by years of pounding wave action on the cliff line.
Birds and Devils
Tasmanian Devil Park at Taranna is a home for injured and orphaned native animals. Tasmanian devils are permanent residents; other guests may include quolls, rare golden possums, eagles and owls. Leading off from the park is the Tasman Bird Trail, which travels 1.5 km to the coast – here you might spot eagles, falcons, honeyeaters and a range of seabirds.
Wilderness Wanders
Fortescue Bay is part of Tasman national park, which protects eastern and southern tracts of the Tasman Peninsula. Reached by dirt road, the bay is the only location within the park offering camping. It is also the starting point for a series of walking trails that explore the mighty cliffs and forested interior of this wild stretch of coast.
Coastal Incarceration
Port Arthur is Australia’s most significant convict heritage site. Authorities sent 65 000 convicts to Tasmania in the first half of the 19th century, and about 12 000 had the misfortune to end up here, a prison seemingly at the end of the earth. Today the site encompasses 40 ha, including the prison with its cell blocks and chapel, the asylum, the Commandant’s House and the port area. In summer visitors can take a harbour cruise to the Isle of the Dead, where hundreds of convicts, civilians and military personnel are buried. The lamplight ghost tours of the historic site are an added bonus for those who decide to break their journey here.
A Remarkable Place
Remarkable Cave is another of the Tasman Peninsula’s extraordinary rock formations. From the car park there is a long, steep stair way to reach the viewing platform. The formation is located in a deep gully, the base of which is lined with perfectly tumbled rocks. Between the gully and the ocean is a cliff about 30 m thick, and an opening where water rushes in.
Shacks, Surf, Scenery
Heading west to Nubeena, the road passes through forest, farmland and a pretty valley. Nubeena itself, on the shores of Wedge Bay, is a haven for recreational anglers. Nearby lies the shack settlement of White Beach and the windswept dunes and legendary surf of roaring Beach Coastal Reserve.
Down the Mines
Tasmania’s first mine, now preserved in Coal Mines Historic Site, was established in 1833. By 1839 there were 150 convicts working at the side – they were often repeat offenders of the worst class and forced to work in conditions beyond appalling. The mine closed in 1848. A walking trail joins the various buildings that survive this gruesome period.